Olde English Bulldogges tend to live longer, breath better, are more tolerant to temperatures, have fewer problems with skin issues and they are over all healthier. The original bulldog was like the Olde English today before being crossed with short nosed small dogs and virtually restricting their ability to breath! Not all English bulldogs are plagued with health problems but sadly very few can even have their pups naturally like the Olde English Do. Most English breeders get three litters from C-Sections then place the females into pet homes. So the Olde English are truly the Healthy choice for the sake of the dog and owner, they are loyal family companions that you will love! They have great personalities once you have one for a companion it is hard to go back, you will always want another bulldog!!
IOEBA Olde English Bulldogge History
The Olde English Bulldogge originated in England between 1600 and 1700. These were the early ancestors to many of the Bull breeds that exist today including the English Bulldog and the American Bulldog. They were bred to participate in blood sports like bull baiting. This so called sport, became quite popular in England through out the middle of the 18th Century. Bull baiting primarily consisted of staking out a bull and allowing several Bulldogges to attack it. A dog of great courage and agility was needed for bull baiting. This dog was of medium size; larger dogs were considered to be the result of mastiff crosses.
Around 1835, laws were passed in England prohibiting bull baiting and the Olde English Bulldogges main purpose of existence vanished. Within a decade the numbers of bulldogs declined drastically almost to extinction. Dog show fanciers eventually decided to reconstruct the breed, but wanted to tone down the aggressive temperament of the original Olde English Bulldogge. They crossed the remnants of the existing stock with the pug and over the years that followed they developed the modern English Bulldog. Unfortunately though, this modern dog is wrought with all kinds of genetic health problems.
The modern Olde English Bulldogge is a reconstruction of the original Olde Bulldogge of the 17th and 18th century. Various genetic crosses have been used in carefully and thoughtfully planned breeding programs to obtain this goal. The foundation of most of today’s Olde English Bulldogges can be traced to English Bulldog, American Bulldog, APBT and Mastiff.
These dogs were used very selectively in various combinations to obtain the desired physical and mental traits of the original Olde English Bulldogge. The result has been a good looking Bulldogge of great athletic ability that is much healthier and physically fit without most or all of the problems that plague today’s modern English Bulldogs. The goal of all Olde English Bulldogge breeders should be to produce genetically healthier Bulldogges that are free breathers, free breeders, and free whelpers.
The IOEBA’s detailed breed standard is the best guide as to what the perfect Olde English Bulldogge should look like according to the International Olde English Bulldogge Association. It is recommended that it be used by today’s Olde breeders in an effort to maintain the high standards that the breeders of the past and the IOEBA have set fourth.
Official IOEBA Breed Standard: Olde English Bulldogge
Olde English Bulldogges are athletic and most importantly of very good health, males are free breeders and females are free whelpers. The Olde English Bulldogge is devoid of all breathing issues and is capable of enjoying outdoor activity without concern except in extreme heat or cold. The temperament is very stable and trustworthy making them a loyal companion, capable protector and the ultimate family member. Old English Bulldogges thrive on pleasing their owners and are very trainable.
Their lifespan is between 10 and 14 years.
Head: Large and high, moderately sunken between the eyes (medial furrow). The circumference of the head should be equal to or greater than the dog’s height at the shoulder. A narrow head or one that appears too small for the body is a fault.
Ears: Rose ears set well on the sides of the head are preferred. Dropped ears are acceptable as long they are small, not “hound like”. Full pricked ears that stand up on top of the head should be considered a serious fault.
Muzzle: Broad, deep and short with moderate wrinkling. The bite is undershot with the bottom jaw turning up noticeably. Lower canines should not protrude. Muzzle too long (more than 3 inches), scissor bite or even bite are disqualifying faults. Muzzle should be no shorter than 1 ½”. Wry jaw is a disqualifying fault.
Eyes: Wide apart and of moderate size. Any color is acceptable. However, odd eyes (one dark, one blue or light) should be considered unpreferred. Misshapen or bugged eyes are a serious fault. Lacking pigment around the eyes is undesirable. Crossed eyes or non-symmetrically shaped eyes are a disqualifying fault.
Nose: Broad with open nostrils (nares) with no sign of air restriction. The nose should not be pushed up between the eyes. From the stop to the end of the nose must be at least one and one half inches. The nose should be a solid color. Lacking pigment is a serious fault. A nose lacking all pigment is a disqualifying fault.
Neck: Short to medium in length and very muscular flowing into the shoulders and should not be set on the dog so it appears to stop at the shoulders.
Chest: Ribs should be well sprung (rounded) and the chest wide and deep. Depth of chest should be at least to the elbows. A hollow or narrow chest (slab sided) should be considered a serious fault.
Back: Males should appear square and balanced. Females should appear similar with consideration given for body length. Short with a very slight rise from the shoulders to a slight drop in the croup is preferred. A level back is acceptable as long as the tail does not come straight off the top of the back.
Shoulders: Shoulders should be well laid back with significant angulations to allow for good movement. Straight shoulders are a fault.
Legs: Forelegs should be straight and wide apart, neither bowing out nor turning in. There should be significant bone substance. Elbows should be relatively close to the body. Lacking bone and substance is very undesirable. Elbows that are loose or “fiddle fronts” are a disqualifying fault. “East / West” forelegs are a serious fault. Rear legs should exhibit significant bend of stifle so to allow for good movement. They should be well muscled. Straight or “posty” rear legs are a serious fault. Cow hocks are a disqualifying fault.
Movement: Dogs should have a balanced gait that drives off the rear and is complimented by reach allowing the dog to cover ground with a sense of power. Dogs should single track. Pacing or crabbing is a serious fault.
Feet: Round, tight both front and rear, and the pasterns should be strong. Weak pasterns and/or splayed feet are disqualifying faults.
Height: Males – 18 to 20 inches at the shoulder. Females – 17 to 19 inches at the shoulder.
Weight: Between 50 to 70 lbs. for females and 65 to 85 lbs. for males. Although height and weight above the standard is to be discouraged, there is no penalty as long as the dog is well proportioned, otherwise correct and balanced.
Color: Any color, except merle, (IOEBA now accepts some Merle’s) is acceptable with no preference for one over another. The coat is short. A wavy coat or a long coat is a disqualifying fault. There should be no signs of feathering on the legs or neck area, also a disqualifying fault.
Tail: A pump handle tail that naturally reaches the hock is preferred, screwed short or a docked tails are acceptable. The pump handle tail should be carried low and not over the back of the dog.
Temperament: Disposition should be outgoing and happy. While a watchful nature may be expected at home, human aggression without provocation is a disqualifying fault.